Destined to be a Stick-slinger?:

A Guide to Markland Frat Archery

2006 Edition

Sir Brahm Lyndonset, Black Badger

Pirates of the Lost Cause
 

I’ve been shooting bow all my life, and five years of frat.  There is a big difference.  Those targets like to move, shout at you, hide, and even fire back.  It’s a little more exciting than an afternoon visit to the range.  The 2001 edition of this article has served as training material for dozens of Markland archers, and hopefully the trend will continue as I update this.
            Light archery is a very rewarding pastime on the Markland field.  Almost anybody can shoot bow, including many with physical limitations.  Not everyone can get in armor and get knocked around with the Big Boys/Girls.  You learn to appreciate the flow of battle, and spend a greater time watching strategies unfold.  As an archer, you see all, and many good captains/generals know that. 

So, let’s get down to business; you want to be a Markland Archer?  You’ve come to the right place.

I. Get your armor together.

 

It doesn’t take a large financial investment to start up as a light.  No shiny plates, articulated arms/legs, or bulky gauntlets necessary.  I would (as Markland does) suggest starting with a sturdy tunic with short or tight-fitting sleeves.  Cotton trigger makes an excellent material for combat garb, as it is durable, resistant to staining, and wrinkle-free.  Next, you will need to protect your head.  I suggest the following:

Helm:   1. Three weapon fencing mask with built-in throat protection ($20-$100 on the internet.)

2. Helm with gorget ($40-$1000, I suggest Ebay or Sir Gunther!)

3. Lacrosse helmet with gorget or sport throat protection (Yard sale fodder!)

    You will have to also find orange electrical or duct tape, and tape the hell out of the helm with ½”-1" bands, so you may easily be identified as a light archer.  You can get away with stripes around the crown of your head, at chin level, and forehead level. (If you need help, check out the picture on the bottom of this page.)  As for the gorget or throat protection, get one cheap from a leather armorer, or make a padded one at your sewing machine.

In addition to the helm, there are other areas that you need to protect.

Ladies: Some kind of protection for the chest would not be a bad idea.  If you are especially sensitive up there, err on the side of caution.  However, do not let a Markland reeve tell you that you are not permitted to field without chest protection.  It is not required by the rules, and is a matter of personal choice.

Men: Cups. Have an extra handy in case of embarrassing blow-outs.  Do not think of fielding without one, even though you are a light.  Otherwise, one of Deborah’s well-aimed arrows will have you talking like a squirrel for the rest of a war.
 
Hands:   Leather glove or better for bow hand, archer tabs or tape for nock hand.

II. You're going to also need a bow.  Your best bet is a fiberglass recurve that has a draw weight (denoted by a # symbol) of 25-30 pounds at 28".  It should be printed on the bow.  When you look at a bow, check for cracks and deep nicks on the surface.  Look down the length of the bow and make sure the limbs are not twisted, as well.  Frayed strings are not good, but they can be replaced cheaply.  You can get a bow at flea markets for $15-$30 used, no more than $60 brand new.  I highly suggest you pick up any bow with the “Bear” or “Fox” brand name on them.  These puppies are indestructible and plentiful.  My Golden Bear has been beaten, tromped, thrown, and used as heavy trap, and still is like new. 

III. Quiver:    I use a simple shoulder-slung bag I made out of sturdy cotton trigger, and filled it with two sections of black corrugated drainage or 4” PVC pipe duct-taped together.  It holds a sheaf (2 doz. arrows) nicely.  This is a matter of personal taste.  I’ve seen arrows tucked into belts, carried in baskets, trash cans, etc.  Experiment.

IV. Arrows:    Here's the toughest part.  A dozen arrows should only cost you about $25, but will take you a LONG time to make.  You need patience to be an archer.  It pays off.  Trust me.  I make arrows from scratch, but if you can find old wood arrows, use 'em!  My method is consistent, but takes a bit of practice.

Supplies: (For 12 arrows)

Assembly:

1. Cut the 3/8” dowels to 29” lengths

2. Measure out and mark the 1" dowel at 1" lengths.  Cut.  Cut out more than you need.  Trust me.  

3.  Test drill one of the 1" dowels.  Drill about 1/2 way into the center of the dowel.  Do not drill any farther than halfway.  Try to fit one of the 3/8" dowels into the hole.  It should fit snugly.  If it does not fit snugly, use a smaller bit.  Get REALLY good at this, and drill more dowels than you need.  

4.  Mix up the 2-part epoxy.  Fill the holes in the 1" dowels with it.  Fit the long dowels into the holes.  Do this in small doses; epoxy dries very, very quickly.

5.  (OPTIONAL) Spray paint the shaft of the arrows.  This helps with the appearance, a little.

6.  From the nock side of the arrows, measure about 1" down, then measure the length of the fletching and add this to the total.  Mark all arrows at this length.  It should be about 4"-6" down the shaft.

7.  Cut strips of strapping tape equal to the length of the shaft from the mark you just made to the 1"dowell tip. You will need two strips for each arrow.  

8.  Lay these strips lengthwise along the shaft, and smooth onto the shaft.  Cover any bare spots with the second strip.

9.  (DIFFICULT) Cut nocks into the shafts.  Be careful to keep them square, and try not to split the wood.  This may take some time to perfect.  Try using a jigsaw or coping saw, and sand or shave the inside of the nock.  

10.  (DIFFICULT) Attach vanes to the shaft using fletch-tite or modeling cement.  One vane will be perpendicular to the nock, while the other two should be just about (but not quite) parallel to the nock.

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11. Cut out strips of strapping tape, and lay between the vanes and smooth on.  They should just reach the bottom of the cut for the nock.

12.  Cut out 36 squares from the pipe foam.  They should be 1" square.

13.  Stack 3 squares (also known as "plugs") on top of each other, and strap them to the tip of the arrow

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14.  Cut the pipe foam in tubes that measure in length from the base of the 1" dowel to the top of the plugs.  Fit foam onto arrows  

15.  Wrap the tubes with duct tape.

16.  Cap the tubes with duct tape.

17.  Strap the heads of each arrow with enough strapping tape to go 6" down the length of the arrow shaft.

18.  Mark your arrow with your electrical tape to identify the arrow as your own.  Alternating bands of color work.  (I use blue, white, and black for example.)
 

That's it.  Easy, HUH?  And think, every 3 or 4 wars, you will have to repeat steps 12-18.  If an arrow breaks at the head, all you have to do is attach a new 1" dowel and repeat steps 12-17.

If you aren't scared away by now, here's the real reason to be an archer: TACTICS.

V. In battle, you have primary targets.  

1:  Hit Leaders.  Anybody who is shouting orders needs to die.  You may be the only person on the field capable of killing a general or king.  Go for them first.

2: Hit other archers.  They can kill you, and even worse, they can easily decimate your line.  Be careful, as any arrows you “feed” to the other side may come right back to you, or the opposing archers may wait until you’ve wasted all your ammo before they open fire.  Don’t shoot archers standing near (or on!) their own resurrection points, especially in timed battles.  It is a practice in futility.

3: Hit spearmen.  They are generally wide open, and once eliminated, static battle lines usually fall apart. 

4. Shields are last.  If you’re going to shoot at a sword-and-boarder, get on the left flank of your line.  A right-handed swordsman’s meatiest spot is his/her right side.    

VI. Other Tips:

-When plate is proof, aim for feet or eye slots. 

-Hide behind your line and stay low.  Switch flanks frequently.   A deadly archer is an invisible one.  

-Draw an arrow and make eye contact with a member of the opposing line.  Point your weapon at him.  Out of the corner of your eye, scan the line for someone who is not paying attention.  Quickly turn and fire on that person.  You’ve managed not only to distract one person, but possibly kill another.

-Similar tactic.  Work with a spearman on this one.  Grab the attention of another member of the opposing line by pointing your drawn bow at him.  If he/she’s not paying attention, give ‘em a shot.  This will hopefully turn his/her head long enough for your spearman to finish the job.

-Communicate with your teammates.  They may see something you don't, and visa versa.

-Carry a throwing weapon.  There may be a moment where you may not have time to draw an arrow.  This is a good last resort, and a good way to hit an opposing archer without having to reload. 

-Check an arrowhead after you glean (pick it up.)  If it is broken, throw it off the field; DO NOT BREAK IT IN HALF!  90% of broken heads can be repaired at a later date.

-Practice nocking arrows without looking at your bow.  Being able to see your enemy at all times is an advantage.  Looking down for just ONE SECOND can catch the attention of an opposing archer.

-Get used to dying and being chased.  Learn to back peddle and draw an arrow at the same time.  IF A FIGHTER IS BEARING DOWN ON YOU, THROW YOUR HANDS UP AND SHOUT “DEAD”.  It is much better being “dead” than unconscious.  

That’s about it this time around.  Best wishes to any interested archers!  If you need help with arrows, I can give you a dead one to reverse engineer..just meet me at the next war.  Of course, I’ll have to break it first, but that’s what bargrills are for. 

In Service to the Stick Slingers of Markland,